Perfume Review – By Kilian Musk Oud: Cardamom Rose

Consider me surprised. I actually like Musk Oud, a fragrance from the luxury house, By Kilian. I don’t think it’s a fantastic, complex, original, nuanced — let alone impressive — fragrance, but it actually smells really good. And that is truly a first for anything that I’ve tried thus far from Kilian Hennessey, the grandson of the founder of LVMH. Of course, since it is a By Kilian fragrance, my feelings come with all sorts of huge qualifiers regarding sillage, longevity and an even more ridiculous price than usual, but you could have bowled me over with the feather when I kept sniffing my arm appreciatively.

The newly released Musk Oud is the fifth (and last) in Kilian’s Arabian Night Collection of oud perfumes which first launched in 2009. Unlike all the rest of its siblings, Musk Oud was created by the legendary perfumer, Alberto Morillas, who was recently awarded the very first FiFi Lifetime Achievement Award from the U.S. branch of the Fragrance Foundation. He’s a fantastic perfumer and co-created my favorite oud fragrance thus far: the spectacular (and sadly discontinued) forerunner of the whole oud trend, YSL‘s M7. The Kilian website describes Morillas’ latest project as follows:

An animalic perfume with a sensual feminity

Musk Oud is a perfume built on the contrast between a liquorish Rose and an animalic Oud accord of great sensuality. In the opening, the Lemon and Mandarin bring a ray of light warmed by Cardamom and Coriander. The heart is an explosion of Roses made syrupy and intoxicating thanks to the Rum extract CO2. A trace of Frankincense and Indonesian Patchouli bring a smokey facet to the composition saturated with dry woods.

Source: Luckyscent

Source: Luckyscent

Musk Oud’s full list of its notes, as compiled from LuckyScent, is as follows:

Lemon, mandarin, cardamom, coriander, cypress, Bulgarian Rose, geranium, davana, Rum extract, frankincense, Oud accord, Musk accord, patchouli.

Musk Oud is the furthest thing from complicated and, on my skin, it is also the furthest thing from either an animalic musk fragrance or a true oud one. It opens on my skin with a rich, beefy, dark red rose that drips thick, jammy juices and which is lightly infused with lemon and a touch of orange. The whole thing is covered with a heavy layer of gorgeous cardamom, and sits upon a quiet, woody base of cypress tinged with patchouli.

Crimson Rose by Karen Betts. Source: redbubble.com

Crimson Rose by Karen Betts. Source: redbubble.com

Seconds later, like a crocodile’s tail moving in muddy water, there are tiny ripples of animalic musk. To my slight unease, it smells very much like dirty, unwashed hair. However, the note is not only incredibly subtle, it essentially vanishes for most of the perfume’s development. It subsequently pops up only two more times, gives a brief bow for a few minutes, and then disappears completely. I was actually surprised by how evanescent it was since one blogger (who admittedly loathes anything animalic) was completely traumatized by the note in Musk Oud. Since my skin actually amplifies both animalic and base notes, I’d fully prepared myself to be overcome by every possible filthy, dirty, raunchy, unwashed, fetid aroma imaginable. Never happened. Not once. And if it should happen to anyone, it should happen to me with my wonky skin that amplifies animalics. Instead, there were only the most minuscule of stirrings in the brown waters of Musk Oud’s base. Perhaps a more accurate analogy would be to compare it to a mosquito in water instead of a crocodile’s tail.

Cardamom. Source: kitchenheadquarters.org

Cardamom. Source: kitchenheadquarters.org

The primary, overwhelming impression of Musk Oud in the first hour is of a cardamom-rose fragrance with other notes just dancing in the sidelines. The richness of the rose is accentuated by a darkly liqueured note, while the cardamom… oh, what cardamom! It’s sweet, nutty, a little dusky, and very spicy. So much so that it almost feels as though it’s accompanied by a fiery red saffron. Undoubtedly, that is just my mind interjecting things, since saffron is often the third twin to the rose-cardamom combination, but Musk Oud does feel as though there is saffron in there, too. As for the dry base, the cedar is lightly sweetened by patchouli and entwined by subtle tendrils of black smoke. There is absolutely no oud at first, and it takes ten minutes for the note to show its face. It’s slightly medicinal but, like all the other elements in the base at this stage, it is extremely muted and serves only to add indirect depth and body to the overall fragrance.

Things start to go down hill a little near the end of the first hour. It took all of 40 minutes for Musk Oud to become a complete skin scent on me. I tried the perfume twice — which wasn’t hard to do, given the usual, below-average longevity that I experience with all Kilian fragrances — and the second time, I applied double the quantity. This time, Musk Oud took one whole, whopping hour to become so glued to my skin that I had to inhale at my arm like a rabid animal to detect its nuances.

Frankincense Smoke  via iStock photos

Frankincense smoke via iStock photos

And, in truth, those nuances were few and far between — in both tests. Just over an hour into the perfume’s development, the base notes come to the foreground as frankincense and oud emerge as the dominant duo. However, neither note is very rich or deep. There is still a heavy sprinkling of cardamom, but the rose note has receded somewhat to the background. Occasionally, it will pop up and become more noticeable, then vanish, then come back to take over the whole scent for about five minutes, then retreat…. and so on. The animalic musk makes a brief appearance around the 90 minute mark, but quickly decides to throw in the towel completely. So, those simple, repeated notes with their varying fluctuations are really the sum total of Musk Oud. The citrus notes had departed long ago; ditto for the cedar; and there was never any geranium or davana to begin with. As for the rum and patchouli, both are essentially undetectable in any distinctive, individual way, except in helping to create that liqueured base to the rose.

After a brief period of time as an oud fragrance with tablespoon of cardamom, a teaspoon of rose, and a pinch of smoke, Musk Oud turns into a simple, more abstract, woody fragrance. There are subtle flecks of oud and cardamom with just a light whisper of jammy rose, but the whole thing feels quite muted and is extremely hard to detect given the nonexistent sillage. Then, Musk Oud dies entirely, having lasted no more than 3.5 hours with my usual dose and 4.25 hours with my larger one. Neither number is very impressive.

I had been curious to what extent Alberto Morillas’ co-creation of the fabulous M7 might have influenced the smell of another spicy agarwood fragrance. The answer is none at all. With the exception of the citrus, cardamom and oud, the two fragrances have no familial olfactory resemblance at all. To my surprise, it is a wholly unexpected perfume house which comes to mind: Guerlain. Kilian’s Musk Oud really evokes early parts of Guerlain‘s Rose Nacrée du Désert from Les Déserts d’Orient Collection. The first hour of Rose Nacrée has the exact same sort of rich, darkly liqueured, jammy, beefy rose infused with cardamom that dominates Musk Oud. Of course, the two perfumes eventually part ways, with the Guerlain turning into an overly syrupy, sugared, almost gourmand fragrance, while the Kilian turns into frankincense and oud. I’m sure there are even more cardamom-rose fragrances out there that resemble Musk Oud (especially from Montale) because, the truth of the matter is, it’s not a very inventive fragrance. It smells great for what it is, but it treads some well-worn ground.

Going by my experiences, the name “Musk Oud” feels like a misnomer. For one thing, on my skin, there was almost no musk in it. For another, the quantity of agarwood was hardly enough to render the scent a true oud one. It reminded me Kilian‘s Amber Oud which, to my nose and on my skin, had virtually no oud in it at all. Musk Oud has more of the note, but it’s all relative. In fact, given how the fragrance is such a skin scent, what little oud there is may be even harder to detect.

There aren’t a lot of in-depth blog reviews out there for Musk Oud. The fragrance is so new that I couldn’t even find a Fragrantica entry for it. However, out of the two comments on Luckyscent, both focused on the musk issue. One poster loved the scent, writing that Musk Oud was “[j]ust the right balance between the oud and the musk, neither too animalic nor too clean.” The other tried hard to be polite and mask his disdain:

Not impressed. I love rich, deep musk scents. My favorite perfume is Musc Ravageur. So when you name something Oud Musk, well I’m expecting something rich and dark and almost dirty. There is nothing unique about this. It’s not a clean musk mind you, it does have the dirtiness but its done in an oddly sheer way. I will say however, that that is probably perfect for some people. A polite, dirty musk. I guess there is a place for it.

Both commentators thought that the perfume had outstanding longevity and wrote that it “lasted all day.” I think that may be the first time I’ve ever seen that said about any Kilian fragrance, but, hey, I’m happy there are exceptions.

How you feel about Musk Oud will depend solely on two things: how you feel about animalic notes, and how your skin deals with them. The second review on Luckyscent is significant because it underscores that point. If you’re someone who loves a scent like Frederic Malle‘s Musc Ravageur (or, even more extreme, Parfum d’Empire‘s Musc Tonkin), then Musk Oud will be disappointing child’s play. If you’re someone like me whose feelings about musk can depend on its treatment, you may greatly enjoy Musk Oud, especially if your skin chemistry decides to play nicely with the note. But if you’re someone who can’t stand any animalic notes whatsoever, then Musk Oud may be a nightmare regardless of chemistry.

That was the case with Lucas of Chemist in a Bottle whose traumatized account of the fragrance reads, in part, as follows:

The opening act of By Kilian Musk Oud is a tidal wave of musk on my skin. I smell raw, animalic if not a fecal kind of musk. It has that dense, powerful structure that will be definitely too much for those who are not infatuated and obsessive by this raw perfume material. I definitely don’t belong to that group! Couple of minutes later I start to smell trouble. Double trouble because here appears the oud. In the whole oud fragrances trend I am quite lucky that oud notes don’t manifest themselves too bold on my skin. However Musk Oud doesn’t classify as one of those. As I write this my arm is almost dripping with oud. No joke! [¶]

[Later] I was attacked by a hard to describe smell that to me, in the closest comparison, was a mix of unwashed, sweaty clothes and sticky, greasy hair. So gross and so off-putting.

As you can see, a wholly different experience from either myself or the two chaps on Luckyscent. The odd thing is that my skin normally amplifies both musks and agarwood to the point where it can overwhelm a perfume, while Lucas — in testing the exact same fragrance — can find them to be completely minute and tolerable. So, I’m not quite sure what happened here to flip the situation so much on its head but, for me, Musk Oud was neither a musk fragrance nor an oud one. (It certainly was nothing like my experience with Opus VII, the animalic, musky oud fragrance from Amouage!) Where my experience does parallel (a little) that of Lucas is in terms of sillage and longevity. Musk Oud lasted 6 hours on him, and he found the sillage to be very low.

Musk Oud, 50 ml bottle. Source: Aedes.

Musk Oud, 50 ml bottle. Source: Aedes.

I very much enjoyed the cardamon-rose aspects of the fragrance, but I would never buy Musk Oud. I think it’s ridiculously over-priced for what it is, and simply isn’t special enough. Kilian’s prices are high to begin with, but the Arabian Nights Collection takes it to ridiculous levels given the generally uncomplicated, bare bones, and sometimes mundane nature of the scents. (Yes, Amber Oud, I’m looking at you.) Normally, Kilian charges $235 for a small 50 ml/1,7 oz bottle of one of his fragrances, like the recent Flower of Immortality. However, Musk Oud — like all the oud scents in the Arabian Nights Collection — retails for $395 (or €295), with the “cheap” alternative options starting at $185 for a refill bottle. Until Mr. Hennessey corners the world supply of either jammy roses, cardamom, musk or oud, I see nothing in this simple, relatively linear, fleeting, and sometimes impossible to detect fragrance that is worth $400 (more, with tax) for a tiny bottle, or even $185. There are half a dozen fragrances from Montale alone that are based on oud, rose, cardamom, frankincense and/or musk; they cost $110 for the same size bottle, have projection, and last forrrrrrrrrrrrrrrever!

That said, I do think Musk Oud is pretty enough to be worth a sniff or a small decant. However, given the sillage, longevity, cost, uncomplicated and non-oud nature of the fragrance, it may not be worth more than that.

DETAILS:
Cost & Availability: Musk Oud is an eau de parfum that costs $395, $235 or $185 (depending on the form in which you buy it). The lovely lock-box version is 1.7 oz/50 ml of fragrance and costs $395; the refill bottle is $185; and the travel option is $235. In the U.S.: Musk Oud is available at Bergdorf Goodman (in all 3 options), Saks Fifth Avenue (2 options) and Aedes (just the $395 lock box). All 3 options are available at Luckyscent, along with samples for $5 for a 0.7 ounce vial. Outside the U.S.Musk Oud is available on By Kilian’s international website where it costs €295 (with VAT included) for a 1.7 oz/50 ml bottle. The site also has the more affordable options. In London, you can find Musk Oud at Harvey Nichols which carries the 50 ml/1.7 oz size lock box version for £265.00 or the 50 travel refill for £110.00. Harvey Nichols stores around the world, from Dubai to Hong Kong, also carry the Kilian line. In Paris, the Kilian line is carried at Printemps. As for other locations, By Kilian’s Facebook page lists the following retailers and/or locations: “HARVEY NICHOLS (UK, Honk Kong, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Koweit, Turkey), Le BON MARCHE (France), TSUM (Russia), ARTICOLI (Russia) and HOLT RENFREW (Canada).” Samples: Samples are available from Surrender to Chance where prices start at $4.99 for a 1/2 ml vial. 
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23 thoughts on “Perfume Review – By Kilian Musk Oud: Cardamom Rose

  1. Well, the beginning of your review sounded very promising. 🙂
    I would still like to try it – who knows, my skin might wake the animal in it. 😉

    • I hope you do try it, my dear. It’s absolutely worth a *sniff*… 😉 I’d love to see how it manifests itself on your skin and if it lets out a musky roar. Preferably, not in the way that it was for poor Lucas. LOL. So, if you test it, let me know what you think. 🙂

  2. I have the feeling that I would like this. I own Incense Oud and love Rose Oud and the fact that this has a cardamon note to me sounds promising. I’ll seek out a sample at Sak’s this week and will let you know my thoughts!

    • I think you’d like this too, Mr. Hound. Very much your style. I’m dying to know how the musk will appear on you or to you. There aren’t enough reviews out there for me to figure out if people find this to be a musk fragrance or not. I definitely don’t think it’s animalic, whatever degree of musk shows up!

  3. I wanted so much to like a perfume in this line but it has not happened yet for me. I won’t be seeking this one out either. They rarely last on me either. And for $400 I really want more than 3 hours of skin time. I want sillage too, not a skin scent. I don’t like perfumes that are only detectable at extremely close range. I’m never all that close to most people in my daily life. Oops, I started to go on a little rant there…back to Musk Oud…I like musk and I’m okay with most ouds but I’m not tempted by this one. I feel bad for poor Lucas. He had a rough go of it.

    • Heh, I share all the feelings encapsulated in your “rant” (which I loved and which wasn’t really a rant, in my opinion). As for the Kilian musk, it was so far from animalic on me, I couldn’t get over it. I had braced myself for an utter ordeal. Lucas, on the other hand, had a terrible time of it, poor chap. His ordeal is clearly a cautionary tale, and represents the other end of the spectrum from both my experience and that of the two men on Luckyscent. I’m going to be very interested to see how the perfume plays out on other people’s skin and if they get any musk from it at all, animalic or otherwise.

  4. The price tag for this is insane but the packaging is very nice, I really love musk but the fact that this smells like body odor would probably make me dislike it. But 50ml for 400? I guess the pretty box is the one that makes this so expensive 😛 , also I´m really wondering how many perfumes you have Kafka, do you ever get confused and forget what you have? You must have thousands!

    • No, nothing close to thousands! I know of perfumistas who have hundreds upon hundreds of perfumes and decants. Some even have small mini fridges to store them at perfect temperatures, or specially designed shelving or armoires for all their bottles. My collection is much, much more modest. 🙂 But I do have a small, special, darkened section for the rare vintages which I protect carefully as if they were gold in Fort Knox, and which I almost never use.

  5. Out of all the fragrance sin the Arabian Nights Collection, Incense Oud is my favorite. I also like Rose Oud and strangely cannot seem to smell Amber Oud at all. I am looking forward to trying this. On the whole, with the exception of Incense Oud, I tend to find almost all of the Kilian fragrances to be transparent and “work-friendly.”

    But then again, I work in a French Department where the strongest perfumes applied with the heaviest hands are considered work-friendly! So I basically mean what I imagine other offices with people with real jobs work 😉

    But I digress, as you know I love me some musk and I love me some oud. I might be disappointed by the strength and the longevity, but I still have a little lemming that has appeared next to me 🙂

    • I’ll be curious to know what you think of Musk Oud and, especially, to see how the musk plays out on your skin. I truly can’t see it being animalic in the least, but it will be interesting to see the extent to which *any* musk shows up at all beyond the usual sort of amorphous muskiness in the drydown of woody fragrances.

      On a wholly separate note, and because I know you in particular will understand, can I just say how odd and annoying I find the word “feminity”?? I actually thought it was a typo on the Kilian site, but apparently, the rarely-used variant actually does exist according to some grammar and dictionary sites. One pointed out that it was so rarely used, it could provide the 2 or 3 occasions that it showed up in print. Hm…

        • Seriously not a typo. It looked so odd, I first put a “[sic]”, then checked, then deleted it and pondered if I should put an asterix next to it with a notation down below stating it was written that way on the website and not a typo of mine, and then finally just gave up entirely. But, for a while, it was driving me a little batty as I couldn’t stop staring at “feminity.”

  6. I am so glad you reviewed this one! I have been eagerly awaiting its release here in Dubai which, they have purposely held back to coincide with the Eid Holidays (big gift giving time!). So, another month or more for us….
    I can’t wait to see how it is on my skin because of the hugely varying responses thus far. I am hoping for lots of animalic musk (I love Musc Raveuger and MKK from SL!). But, I am with you on the pricing – it seems a little over the top even with the fancy packaging. So far I have resisted buying a “real” bottle from this line by just making due with refills and the travel sets (those cases are amazing!) but, was thinking this might be the one…. We will see…
    Did you know that there is Gold Oud here in Dubai? It is an exclusive for the Middle East I believe. It is supposedly a more concentrated version of Rose Oud. I love it but, if you think the normal prices are high…..don’t even bother asking about this one 🙂 It might last a little longer on your skin though.
    I have been a little disappointed in Kilian’s recent releases but, I keep hoping for better. And hey, any chance I have to see Mr. Hennessy in person is reason enough for another release! The picture of him with the snake is one of my favorites. During his visit in November, my mom asked him if he liked working with the snake and answered with a resounding, “no!”

  7. Meh…no interest but I won’t refuse a sniff…and I may already have when baconbiscuit and I were at Aedes. I saw the clutch that comes with a FB of In the Garden of Good and Evil series and I’m with baconbiscuit as to its supreme desirability.

  8. Pingback: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Fragrance Review | Notable Scents

  9. Pingback: By Kilian Musk Oud Fragrance Review | Notable Scents

  10. Pingback: #200 – Lists, Favorites, Stats & Oddities | Kafkaesque

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