YSL‘s M7 For Men ushered in the new dawn of oud fragrances, whether or not anyone wanted it. And, judging by the market bomb, no-one did want it. M7 was not just a trail-blazer and the first of its kind; it was also too original, unique, bold and, it seems, shocking for a world dominated by the freshness of Acqua di Gio. As I’ve discussed previously in my post on oud as the latest, new, incredibly popular trend in perfume, M7 was ahead of its time and its brash arrival on the scene was not helped by print ads featuring a beautiful, hairy, male model in full frontal nudity.
M7 was released by YSL in 2002 under the direction of Tom Ford. It was created by Jacques Cavalier and Alberto Morillas and featured the following notes:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, rosemary.
Middle: Vetiver, agarwood.
Base: Amber, musk, mandrake root.
M7 was a huge failure for YSL, and was sneakily reformulated in 2008 — undoubtedly at the order of YSL Beauté’s new overlord, L’Oreal. The reformulated version lasted two years until 2010 when the whole perfume was quietly taken off the market. In 2011, YSL launched M7 Oud Absolu, a de-fanged version of the original monster. (And, somewhere in between all these changes, they found the time to release M7 Fresh, too! Clearly, they were at a loss with what to do with M7 and were trying every possible avenue to fix the problem and their loss in anticipated revenue.)
M7 is still available on eBay, but it’s hard to know which version you’re buying unless you check the bottles and boxes.
The original M7 is packaged in a deep brown bottle that is solidly brown all around and has a silver band at the top. Its box lists four ingredients.
In contrast, the reformulated version of M7
comes in a box that is really essentially clear with just a big solid sticker of brown on the front and back; you can tell it’s the reformulated version because the sides and bottom of the bottle are completely clear.
Its box is also different; it now lists 14 ingredients. Despite the increase in ingredients, however, the reformulated version is supposed to be substantially weaker than the original, emphasizes amber over faint oud, and lasts a fraction of the time. That said, both versions are said to have the same dry down.
I have often said that curiosity will be the death of me. (It definitely will be the death of my wallet one of these days.) All the Sturm und Drang around M7 were too much to resist. So, I ordered a sample of M7 from Surrender to Chance, and tried it with great trepidation.
I absolutely LOVED it, and that made me deeply suspicious. As I sometimes tell my friends, I’m a bit of a wuss when it comes to oud fragrances. (You would be too if you’d had my experiences with Montale! Worst thing ever!)
So, I went about investigating, and I think it’s pretty clear that Surrender to Chance carries the 2007/2008-2010 reformulated version of M7, as do the other sample sites no doubt. It’s extremely disappointing. I’m determined to somehow get my hands on the original but, for now, let’s explore this version of the hairy, naked beast. (Sorry, that ad tends to stick in my head….)
M7 (reformulated) opens with an absolutely stunning burst of citrus, sweetness, smoke verging almost on the side of incense, and rich wood. I love it and note, “I think I may have found my oud!” There is a soft, subtle touch of the medicinal, but far less than what I had expected. It certainly doesn’t seem to have the forceful medicinal nature that one of my best friends who has the original version of M7 had described to me. He had noted the smell of bandaids and he was absolutely right. But in my diluted version of M7, it is very subtle. The slightly rubbery, plastic quality to the outside part of a pink bandaid strip is noticeable but it is far outweighed by the smell of sweet ambered spices. It’s almost as if there is a touch of cinnamon and a whisper of honey amidst that crisp, fresh citrus and the oud wood.
The latter has an almost vegetal element to it that calls to mind moss-covered trees in the heart of a British wood. The notes definitely evoke the feeling of a walk through the woods surrounded by faint tendrils of smoke — perhaps from a pile of burning leaves in the distance. I feel very Downton Abbey-ish when I think of those notes, but the amber dominates too much for it to be more than a fleeting feeling. The oud wood is too warmed by the amber and the sandalwood to be a true oud scent like that of By Kilian’s Pur Oud which I have reviewed previously. M7 actually feels a bit closer to By Kilian’s Amber Oud, probably because there seems to be a substantially reduced amount of oud in the reformulated version of M7 (and seemingly little to none in the Kilian).
My version of M7 also calls to mind something unexpected: my beloved Opium in a shadowy form. I feel as though I’m going mad but, no, the opening definitely evokes Opium to me. I check Fragrantica and it suddenly clicks: Opium’s top notes are bergamot and mandarin, and amber is at its base. M7’s crisp, almost zesty opening burst of orange citrus and bergamot in an ambered cloak definitely shadows the magnificence of Opium’s opening (though nothing can or will ever – ever – really compare to vintage Opium, my Holy Grail bar none). Since Opium is perhaps YSL’s greatest success, it’s not completely surprising that the company would hearken back to its roots a little when creating M7. Perhaps that’s one reason why I keep writing “love” in my notes — complete with capital letters and exclamation points.
Unlike others, I never had the “cherry cough syrup” opening in M7. No doubt that is another casualty of the reformulation. I also don’t have much duration. I’m utterly appalled at how briefly M7 lasts on me. No more than 20 minutes later, it’s already starting to fade. An hour in, it’s a virtual ghost. I feel cheated and, truth be told, a little like sobbing. I have far too little to do what I’d like, which is to pour it on me by the handful. I’m crushed and desperately cling onto the remnants of citrus, sandalwood and amber. (The oud left the building long ago.) I’m slightly comforted by the fact that someone on Basenotes stated the reformulated version lasted only an hour on him. Clearly, it’s not all me and my wonky, perfume-consuming chemistry.
In slight despair, and fighting the urge to pour the remainder of my vial all over me, I go to Fragrantica to read about other people’s experiences with the scent. And, good God, this thing (in original form) is a definite lady killer! One of my best friends had told me her boyfriend wears M7 and… well, I’ll spare you the blushes. But I thought her reaction was simply because he’s a bit of a hunk. Apparently, M7 turns everyone into a bit of a hunk! A small sampling of the comments:
- I received the best compliment ever from a sexy girl after she buried her face in my neck, ‘f**k me now, and again tomorrow, just so I can smell that again.’ nuff said.
- A woman at work commented the other day “You smell amazing you’re affecting my pheromones”
- This is Hardcore Sex in a bottle!!! Its Sweaty, Its Dirty, Its Intoxicating…. Its so damn nasty…..I wouldn’t be surprised to know that this one has pheromones on it.
- It smells like sex, just in a bottle. That’s all. Yes, there is so much more, but that’s all that you, dear reader, need to understand here. There’s nothing else quite like vintage M7, and it lasts for DAYS.
- 1. Put a man in a blender. 2. squeeze. 3. add alcohol. M7 formula.
- i like to wear even though i’m a girl. smells very dark, erotic, strong,wild …… it makes me think: “Take me!”
- YOWZA! YOWZA! YOWZA! [..] “M7” is unashamed of its sexy, primal, and animalistic bed-scent persona. Any man entering a room with a bunch of ladies better proceed with caution while donning this fragrance…..They won’t be able to keep their hands to themselves. I know I wouldn’t.
The comments make me sigh, deeply and sadly. What I’m wearing is nothing like the descriptions of the ferocious opening and the almost feral roar of a wild animal seeking its mate. My reformulated version is excellent, no doubt, but it’s clearly a pale substitute. I can’t even begin to imagine what the de-fanged M7 Oud Absolu must smell like given that people say that is a tamed kitten as compared to the savage beast of the original.
M7 is a scent that I urge all men and women to hunt down and try. Those fearful of oud may want to try the reformulated version that I have, though numerous women seem to love wearing the original too. It’s a little piece of perfume history and a whole lot of glory.
[UPDATE: I finally tried M7 in the original 2002 version and you can read my review of it here.]
M7 is like a holy grail to me. I so want to smell it and add it to my collection. I love oud. Haven’t met one I didn’t adore yet. Thank you for this wonderful coverage and history of the fragrance and the key to finding an original. Of again on my crusade to capture M7 and take no prisoners!
Oh, I’m so glad you liked it and that I could be of help. One of my best friends bought a full (or almost full?) bottle of the original, vintage version on eBay last month for around $80. I think after Christmas, prices will go down, so that will be the time to get it. And make sure you avoid anything with a “fresh” on the bottle. I haven’t heard super things about M7 Fresh. (Honestly, what were they thinking?! I blame L’Oreal so much for their endless, constant and severe gutting of the entire YSL fragrance line. And let’s not get me started on my beloved Opium. I may weep.)
Lanier, have you ever tried Montale ouds? If you’ve never tried one you haven’t liked yet, then go meet Montale…… LOL. Seriously. It’s not just me, either. A friend who likes Oud found one of the milder, gentler, more inoffensive Montales than the ones I tried to be frightful. And Scented Hound was no fan of Montale’s Lime Oud either. *shudder* Nor was Freddy from Smelly Things if I recall correctly. You know, Montale may be known for their ouds but I find everything that I’ve tried to be truly horrific stuff thus far — oud or not. Montale is my Waterloo. If you really think you can handle any Oud, I dare you to try one of theirs, especially Lime Oud! *grin*
Oh a dare eh? Double dog dare? Okay I will see what I can do about securing a Montale oud. Okay I must say Lime Oud sounds like a bad idea from the begining. Oh …I just got a shiver. LOL.
In the meantime thanks for the Ebay idea and after Christmas makes sense for scents.
LOL, you’re so funny. I’m really glad I’m getting to know you. Yes, a double dog dare for the Lime Aoud. If you like that one, then you truly like ALL ouds! But in general, I would give Montale a shot if you’re an oud fan. They’re known for their Black Aoud in particular. I tried Lime Aoud and Aoud Blossoms, as well as Oriental Flowers, and none were…. pleasant. But the Lime Oud was well-nigh like Chernobyl on me. I wrote about how I wanted and took a Silkwood shower afterwards and I wasn’t kidding. Montale as a line is known for “clobber you and drag you kicking and screaming to the cave” type of forcefulness for all the perfumes — oud or not. But the Aouds…. *shiver* Still, I do hear a lot of raves about Black Aoud. You may want to start there. If you don’t use Surrender to Chance, I highly recommend you give them a gander. Best sample place, imo, and with the lowest shipping rate. About $2.95 within the US, no matter what size the order. They have everything from vintage to super, super rare stuff even amongst the niche brands. And they have some great sample sets per house/brand that are a good way to try out diff. things. Then, once you settle on what you like, you can track it down elsewhere. Me, since I prefer so many of the vintage/un-reformulated things for many perfumes, I’m a big eBayer in general. But I also find lots of great deals on samples too.
God, I am the worst enabler possible! It’s like a disease how I have to corrupt others! 😀
Rowr! I have to note that Kace wears the original, and always has. I pointed this blog post at him and he chuckled and said that the reformulated version is nothing compared to the original. He said it’s the water to the Irish whiskey. 😮
Tara, initially I wondered which version he wore. Then I thought about your description of M7’s effects on you and concluded that he CLEARLY had to own the original one. Absolutely no doubt about it at all. And thank Kace for further evidence of the diluted nature of the reformulated version. It seems almost unanimous from everything I read that there is a monumental difference between the two!
I don’t know who I am more envious of — you or him. Honestly, I suspect it’s him and his bottle of original M7. *sigh* I will get my hands on it yet!
BottleS. He was so thrilled to find a seller who was selling more than one that he bought the lot. He said he’s got enough for the rest of his life. *giggle*
I wish you luck in your search. 🙂
Kace has bottleS, plural, of the original, unreformulated M7???!!! I really must meet this man.
Was he the person responsible for buying you Lady Gaga’s Fame and Lady Million? If so, we may need to have a serious talk, Kace and I, about women’s perfumes…..
*giggle* He bought me Lady Million, but Fame was from Aro. *laugh* Do you not approve of those two? I haven’t tried them yet, mostly because I can’t actually smell much with my stupid flu. *grin*
I don’t approve much of Lady Gaga’s Fame, no. 😀 It’s a purple fruity patchouli and I’m not generally keen on that, but the real issue is how incredibly synthetic it smells. You can just tell that she’s used cheap synthetic versions of certain ingredients. It’s not a chemical fragrance but you can tell it’s a very artificial one. Lady Million is another fruity patchouli and it’s a little better, I suppose, but both scents are very generic, imo. They’re commercial scents with mass appeal that are taking advantage of the super sweet, fruity trend. I’m not a fan of the latter. I hope you feel better soon, and not just so you can smell them. xoxox
It’s interesting to know the reformulation is apparently water to whiskey! I quite love the original, but I would never call it a “pussycat” – especially when you compare it to the popular men’s scents out there. I’m beginning to think they probably *are* quite different, because the original definitely has a “kick” to me that I think is very uncommon/unusual – though I haven’t smelled the vast repertoire of scent you have, so maybe it’s my limited exposure!
But I’m glad you at least got to experience a version of M7, even if it wasn’t the original!
It’s not just Tara’s BF who finds the reformulation to be “water to whisky,” but almost everyone on Fragrantica who has smelled it. So, it seems to be pretty unanimous that there is a huge difference in opening smell, concentration and strength. They do say that the final dry-down is extremely similar, but the oud that gives M7 its character in the original is drastically reduced. I’ve smelled perfumes with lots of oud; I truly detected VERY little in this. That’s why I was suspicious from the start. It was just TOO little oud and too much amber. I much preferred By Kilian’s Pur Oud for more of a legitimate scent. And finding my version of M7 to be close to the Kilian Amber Oud just underscores which is the main ingredient since the Kilian also has so little oud in it as to be noticeable. (Everyone on Basenotes feels the same way about it.)
I need to smell the original because I think it would fall in the perfect place between the extreme (and synthetic) horrors of Montale’s Aouds, and the ghostly oud of the reformulation and the Kilians. It would be like Goldilock’s porridge! LOL
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Hi. I’m absolutely with you. The former version was really oud. It had the medicinal touch and could last for 2 days. Last year I bought 2 remaining bottles of the newer juice and just like you said: the beast has been tamed!!!! It only lasts around 20 minutes. Sometimes I get so mad that I spray very very liberally in order to get it to stay for a some hours. I guess we’ll have to thank L’oreal for such disgrace. Like I’ve said, I enjoy your writing. Greetings from Venezuela.
Ivan, 20 minutes on you, too??! Oh dear. Well, at least it’s not just me. The thing is, the old, vintage version didn’t last a massive amount of time on me either, so that was a bit frustrating. I have very perfume-consuming skin, though, and I don’t think ANY fragrance has lasted 24 hours on me, let alone 48! lol.
I’m so glad you enjoy the blog, and I look forward to getting to you know better. 🙂