Perfume Review: Dries Van Noten Par Frederic Malle

Snickerdoodles! That, in a nutshell, is the essence of the new perfume, Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle (often shortened to just “Dries Van Noten”), from the the luxury fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. It is one of the most respected haute-niche lines in the world and was founded in 2000 by Frederic Malle, a man who has luxury perfume in his blood. His grandfather founded Christian Dior Perfumes, and his mother later worked as an Art Director for the same perfume house. 

Dries Van Noten (left) with Frederic Malle (right).

Dries Van Noten (left) with Frederic Malle (right).

Recently, Mr. Malle decided to shift his focus from collaborating with perfumers to working with fashion designers. The first designer he chose for this new line would be Dries Van Noten whose eponymous fragrance was created by Bruno Jovanovic and released in early March 2013. According to Grain de Musc, the perfume is Malle’s own loose interpretation of Dries Van Noten’s aesthetic and not the designer’s own creation as rendered by Bruno Jovanovic. In other words, inspired by — not “made by” — Dries Van Noten. The Frederic Malle website supports that conclusion in its concise description of the scent:

Small sized bottle of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle.

Small sized bottle of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle.

A perfume built around natural sandalwood, chosen for its softness and its character, and the fact that it is simultaneously exotic and evocative of the tradition of great classic perfumes. This very short formula made of very precious materials, generates a sober but distinct sensuality. It is, in my eyes, a fair parallel to Dries van Noten’s world.

Fragrantica categorizes Dries Van Noten Par Frederic Malle as a woody Oriental and lists its notes as follows:

sandalwood, guaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes and peru balsam.

Source: Fragrantica

Source: Fragrantica

There was a lot of fuss in the blogosphere about the perfume not only because it was a departure from Malle’s traditional focus but, also, because Dries van Noten involved the use of sustainable Mysore sandalwood. As the Perfume Shrine explained back in January,

it’s also an innovation on the formula front, as the new Malle perfume is touted to be inclusive of a new, natural Indian sandalwood from a sustainable source. Indian sandalwood, for those who didn’t know, had essentially been eradicated from perfumery in the last 20 years or so, due to concerns and regulations on the sustainability of the Mysore sandalwood. The news therefore is a leap of hope for the industry in general and sure to create a real peak of interest in the heart of every perfume fan out there.

Large-sized 3.4 oz bottle.

Large-sized 3.4 oz bottle.

All that is absolutely wonderful, particularly for those (like myself) who adore true Mysore sandalwood, but sandalwood isn’t at the heart of this perfume. No, it’s cookies. To be very specific, the American cookie (or “biscuit,” as the British term it) called “Snickerdoodles.” Americans will know immediately the precise smell which that name invokes but, for others, here is a brief summation from Wikipedia:

snickerdoodle is a type of cookie made with butter or oil, sugar, and flour rolled in cinnamon sugar. Eggs may also sometimes be used as an ingredient, with cream of tartar and baking soda added to leaven the dough. Snickerdoodles are characterized by a cracked surface and can be crisp or soft depending on preference.

Snickerdoodles are often referred to as “sugar cookies”. However, traditional sugar cookies are often rolled in white sugar whereas snickerdoodles are rolled in a mixture of white sugar and cinnamon.

SnickerdoodlesThe thick, yellow-brown, very buttery, very doughy, cinnamon-sugar cookie is exactly what Dries van Noten smells like — only with nutmeg replacing the cinnamon. The opening on my skin is as simple as that, though there is a definite subtext of flour that sometimes verges into the raw dough batter territory. There are creamy, milky notes, both of vanilla and something resembling almonds at times. The whole thing is wrapped up in a cloud of nutmeg, dancing around like the sugar spice fairy. It’s never bitter or pungent, but, instead, sweetened. The sandalwood is similarly sugared, and seems nothing like vintage or real Mysore sandalwood. There is a definite creamy fluffiness to the scent which is surprisingly light in feel. It’s almost as if the sometimes heavy, doughy sugar cookies have been turned into gauzy air.

About ten minutes in, woody notes start to appear — light, white, and quietly smoky. The notes add a dryness to the scent and ensure that the perfume is never cloying, excessively sweet, or cheap-smelling. As time passes, but especially at the thirty minute benchmark, the woods start to turn much smokier. The guaiac wood is starting to make itself noticed with its strong note of burning leaves or burning paper. I love the smell in its more unusual twist on traditional “smoke,” especially as it’s never acrid, sharp or bitter. I think it adds a much-needed dryness to the extremely sweet, fluffy cookie-aspect of the fragrance.

There is also the start of a faint muskiness from the jasmine. The latter is not perceptible as a floral note, in and of itself, at first. It’s far from indolic, heavy, or sour, so those who fear the note need not worry. But the jasmine gives rise to something very puzzling: one part of my arm starts to smell almost solely of sweet, slightly musky jasmine, while the rest of it smells of snickerdoodles, smoking paper, nutmeg and vanilla. It’s as though there is a No Man’s Land inlet of territory where the jasmine is evident, but nowhere else. And it remains that way for a good two hours. No blending, no merging, no jasmine elsewhere — ever. I find it the oddest thing!

For the next six hours, the majority of my arm (minus that one No Man’s Land) smells of Snickerdoodles to varying degrees, but with small subtexts of other notes. At first, the nutmeg is much more pronounced; then it becomes the guaiac and other wood tonalities; after a while, it’s the dough and flour which become the main subtext; and, then, vanilla and sandalwood. But the core essence of nutmeg sugarcookie never changes. At first, I find it delightful and cozy, and then, frankly, I become very  tired and bored of it.

Snickerdoodle dough. Source: FindingTimeForCooking.com

Snickerdoodle dough. Source: FindingTimeForCooking.com

By the time the creamy (but definitely sweetened) sandalwood rolls around, the linearity has driven me a little mad. Particularly as the final dry-down is still mostly flour, yeasty dough, sugar and vanilla. To be fair, I’m not really one for food scents to begin with and, despite the early dry, woody and spiced elements, the needle definitely veers into the “gourmand” category here. Fragrantica can classify this as a “woody oriental” as much as they want; to me, sugar cookies=foody desserts=gourmand fragrances. Period.

I find the fragrance to be a surprising scent to come out of Frederic Malle. This is a lot more what I imagined Jo Malone’s recent “Sugar and Spice” collection to be like. Well, if it were, you know, actual fragrance that was both good, of high-quality, and long-lasting. (Yes, yes, I know, “Meow.”) As a whole, I think Dries Van Noten is not as distinctive as many of Malle’s usual fragrances are, and I suspect that is why a few people seem to have a slight tone of disappointment underlying their generally positive reviews. Or perhaps that is merely my interpretation of the initial test reactions on a Basenotes thread, along with Grain de Musc’s assessment of the perfume.

In Denyse Beaulieu’s case, she had originally expected a scent that evoked a Flemish vegetal garden, but found instead a “speculoos” cookie (which is, I am assuming, a Belgian version of a Snickerdoodle):

When I learned he was partnering with Frédéric Malle I immediately though of Van Noten’s 60-acre garden near Antwerp and envisioned a vegetal, unconventionally floral scent.  [¶] I envisioned a landscape instead of a portrait. Frédéric Malle headed straight for a warm, well-ordered Flemish interior with a plate of cookies. Dries Van Noten is a very delicate woody gourmand, folding a cinnamon and clove-sprinkled, vanillic speculoos cookie accord into milky-smoky Mysore sandalwood[i]. To conjure the toasted, nutty, yeasty cookie dough, Malle remembered that sulfurol, more commonly used in food aromas, was also resorted to by Grasse perfumers to boost sandalwood (the material was featured in the odd, yeasty-milkyLe Feu d’Issey). Patchouli coeur (i.e. divested of its musty/camphor notes), methyl ionone and musk set the blend between woody and cosmetic accords. Jasmine absolute is listed, but not legible per se to my nose; the patchouli is fairly prominent.

I don’t smell any patchouli, but the rest is dead on. Victoria at Bois de Jasmin seems to have had a completely experience from both of us, however, with much more floral notes:

Dries Van Noten’s perfume is smooth like melted chocolate and rich like whipped cream, but you won’t smell of Belgian waffles topped with cherries, or anything edible for that matter. The fragrance uses Indian sandalwood*, and it smells simply decadent–rosy, creamy, warm and opulent. Add to this a lush jasmine note, and I’m in Rajasthan, rather than Antwerp, but this is a wonderful fantasy in itself.

The sweetness of vanilla and toasted almond is balanced out by the citrus and earthy violet notes. The hint of something savory is an accent that shouldn’t work but does. The first impression of Dries Van Noten when I spray it on my skin is a classical oriental a la Guerlain Shalimar, where citrus is used to cool down the rich woods and vanilla. But as I wear it longer, it becomes more floral and musky. The perfume reminds me more of the violet tinged woods of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette than of caramelized sandalwoods like Lutens’s Santal de Mysore or Guerlain Samsara.

Violets? Hm. Not on my end. No Shalimar-like citrus, either. 

Where I do agree with both ladies is the extremely minimal projection of the perfume. However, there seems to be a little bit of a twist where that is concerned. At first, Denyse of Grain de Musc “found its sillage surprisingly introverted despite several spritzes.” Later, she discovered that maybe it vanished only to her own nose! And she wasn’t alone in that. As she explains:

After discussing Dries Van Noten with other French bloggers and perfume lovers who’d tested it, it seems that while the wearer stops being able to perceive the fragrance after a while except in whiffs, other people smell it quite well.
We agreed we’d noticed this occurring with a few sandalwood and iris accords (there is no iris in DVN but there are ionones) like Cartier L’Heure Promise, Tom Ford Santal Blush and Diptyque Volutes. Other people can smell them just fine on us while we feel the fragrance has all but vanished.
Could there be some type of anosmia or “de-sensitization” at play?

Victoria of Bois de Jasmin also found it had “minimal” projection, while some people on a perfume group I frequent have simply said that the scent vanished entirely after an incredibly brief period of time. In short, it’s definitely something to take into consideration, given the cost of the perfume, and to test it for yourself! 

The early consensus from those who’ve tried it is that Dries Van Noten is an incredibly cozy and comforting scent. I think that is very true, if you like gourmand fragrances. But those who aren’t so keen on smelling like food may not be that enamoured. It is one reason why I’m not a huge fan. Another is that I find both its sweetness and its linearity to be, ultimately, a bit too much for my personal tastes — especially for the price. The perfume starts at $185 for a 1.7 oz/50 ml bottle, with the larger bottle retailing for $265. Even if you buy the set of 3 travel-sized minis, it’s still $125 to smell like a Snickerdoodle and yeasty, sugar dough.

Nonetheless, I have no doubt that this will be an enormously popular fragrance, particularly amongst those who enjoy dessert scents with an occasional dry, woody undertone. The gushing I’ve already seen on some sites seems to support that. Plus, the light sillage and good longevity (about 9.5 hours on my perfume-consuming skin) make it ideal for those who want something airy, lightweight and cozy. It’s also suitable for the office, though I personally would not wear it in a very conservative work environment. (Can one be taken seriously if one smells of Snickerdoodles?) 

To mangle the famous quote from the great Judi Dench, “if cookies be your perfume of love… spray on.” 

DETAILS:
Cost & Availability: As noted above, you can purchase Dries Van Noten in a variety of different forms and ways. On his website, Malle offers: 3 travel-sized sprays in a 10 ml size for $125; a 50 ml/1.7 oz bottle for $185; or a 100 ml/3.4 oz bottle for $265. You can also find the perfume at Barneys. In Canada, I’ve read that it is carried at Holt Renfrew, but Dries Van Noten is not listed amongs the few Malles shown on their website. In the UK, it is available at Liberty which sells the 50 ml size for £110.00 and the 100 ml bottle for £155.00. The three 10 ml travel-sized bottles are also available for £70.00. Elsewhere, you can use the Store Locator to find a location that carries the fragrance near you. If you want to test it out, I bought my sample at Surrender to Chance where prices start at $5.99 for a 1 ml vial.

New Perfume Releases: Volume 4 – February 15, 2013

Below is another compilation of the latest perfumes that are either already out on the market or that will be soon. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long (very long!), but feel free to just scroll through to whatever interests you. (Plus, there are some pretty pictures!) All posts are taken via Now Smell This (“NST”), Fragrantica or some other cited source. Most of the sites have some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

Today’s entry will cover everything from: a new Tom Ford (oud) fragrance that pays tribute to the Middle East; two new Guerlain perfumes for Spring; Estée Lauder‘s surrender to the insane, never-ending Oud mania; niche perfumes from Frederic Malle and By Kilian; sugar and spice from Jo Malone; new releases from Caron and Robert Piguet; and more. We will end with a foray into the celebrity world with two perfumes from Maroon 5‘s singer, Adam Levine. You may be surprised to learn that they’ve gotten good reviews and that he worked with a serious perfumer to make a very affordable duo. (But as a warning, the very last photo shows a lot of skin, so it may not be safe for work and you may want to stop scrolling right before the end.) If you’re a fan and in New York, you might be interested to know that he’s going to be launching the perfumes in person today, February 15th, at Macy’s. Details will be at the very end (but before the NSFW photo).

TOM FORD:

Tom Ford has a new perfume called Sahara Noir which will be available only in the Middle East at first, in March, before making its way to the rest of the world sometime in May. This will not be part of the Private Blend line. The Moodie Report has the most comprehensive information that I’ve found on the scent which, I have to say, sounds marvelous:

“Sahara Noir is rich and exotic; it wraps the balsamic, incense-touched notes of frankincense in gold and honey-coloured light,” noted Ford. “Middle Eastern culture has an extraordinary appreciation for the luxurious, emotional and memorable qualities of fragrance; perfume is worn there in a way that feels very familiar to me. Sahara Noir is my interpretation of this heritage. It is a deep and substantial perfume that caresses the senses.”

Frankincense is the key ingredient within Tom Ford’s new Sahara Noir fragrance

The oriental woody juice is crafted around a heart of frankincense. This key ingredient is complemented by top notes of cistus essence Orpur® (Orpur denotes a natural ingredient of exceptional quality and purity), bitter orange, Jordanian calamus – an oasis sweet grass – and Levantine cypress, famed for growing in the gardens of the 1001 Arabian Nights.

The heart blends frankincense essence Orpur® , cinnamon, cool papyrus extract, Egyptian jasmine templar and rose absolute from Morocco. A beeswax extraction from Burma lends body and a supple, honeyed-animalic richness.

The warm dry down is laced with amber. It is formed by a special blend of labdanum – labdanum absolute and a rich natural fraction of labdanum known as ambreinol – combined with benzoin, vanilla, cedar, frankincense resin, agarwood and balsam.

Sahara Noir is presented in a gold-coloured version of the Tom Ford signature fragrance bottle, made of metallised glass and finished with a golden name plaque. The flacon is packaged in a gold, fluted outer carton.

The perfume will come in a 50 ml size. There is no word yet on its price. I have to say, I’m dying to smell this and can’t wait for May!

CARON:

Caron has launched two new fragrances, one of which is a flanker to its famous 1927 carnation scent, Bellodgia! There isn’t much information out on them, but NST did have this to say:

Caron My Ylang and Piu Bellodgia

Caron has launched two new fragrances for women: My Ylang and Più Bellodgia. Both were developed by house perfumer Richard Fraysse.

My Ylang ~ a ‘radiant’ powdery fruity floral with cassis, mandarin, jasmine, ylang ylang, muguet and green vanilla.

Più Bellodgia ~ a ‘romantic’ fresh floral flanker to 1927′s Bellodgia. The notes include carnation, rose, jasmine, cinnamon, clove, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk.

Caron My Ylang and Più Bellodgia are available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

(via shop.essenza-nobile.deprime-beaute)

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain will add to its Aqua Allegoria collection with Nerolia Bianca. The fragrance comes out in late March 2013. Fragrantica reports:

With this creation Thierry Wasser tried to reconstruct Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca Guerlain for women and menevery fraction of a bitter orange tree; from its flowers, fruits and twigs to leaves. The scent is very fresh and citrusy. It contains accords of orange, bitter orange, orange blossom, neroli, twigs and leaves of orange and petitgrain.

It is available as 75 ml Eau de Toilette.

In addition, Guerlain also will have a limited-edition travel exclusive perfume to the line which will be available only at international duty-free shops. The Perfume Shrine has more details:

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa Eau de Toilette Spray (limited Edition) (Travel Retail Exclusive) (not before 01.03.2013)The travel exclusive for 2013 is Flora Rosa by Guerlain and is a limited edition (just like Bouquet No.2 etc were before it). A fresh and lively interpretation on the rose blossom, Jean Paul Guerlain’s favorite flower, it is boosted by other floral anchoring notes to give it duration and depth, Flora Rosa aims to fill the void left by the previous, discontinued Aqua Allegorias Rosa Magnifica and Rosa Bianca from 2011.

The new Guerlain Flora Rosa will be available from 1st March 2013 in eau de toilette 75ml at the duty-free internationally, retailing for 47.50€.

The German duty-free site, Heinemann, shows it will be available for online purchase for travelers through any German airport and at the cost of €46.

PRADA:

Iris lovers may want to celebrate. In March 2013, Prada will launch a new, limited
edition flanker to its iris perfume, Infusion d’Iris. This one will bear the extremely long name of Prada Infusion d’Iris L’Eau d’Iris. Fragrantica has more details:

Extremely elegant and sophisticated fragrance Infusion d’Iris by Prada was launched in 2007. Its Eau de Toilette version was introduced in 2010, while in 2012 the collection expanded with the Eau de Parfum Absolue edition. Prada launches Infusion d’Iris L’Eau d’Iris in March 2013, inspired by spring flowers and the fusing of iris and laurel in the gardens of Tuscany. The fragrance is a limited edition.
Daniela Andrier created this composition as a fresh and delicate interpretation of iris scent. It opens with green accords of Moroccan mint and Tunisian neroli. Pink laurel bay, lily of the valley, rose, iris and orange blossom are placed in the heart. The velvety base includes accords of white musk, woods and vanilla.

Top notes: mint, neroli. Heart: laurel, iris, rose, lily of the valley, orange blossom. Base: white musk, woody notes, vanilla.

The perfume will be available as a 100 ml/3.4 oz Eau de Toilette.

FREDERIC MALLE:

Frederic Malle is taking a break from collaborating with famous perfumers and, instead, launching a collection with famous fashion designers. His first effort will be with designer, Dries van Noten, and the perfume will be released today, February 15, 2013. The Perfume Shrine has the full details but here are the highlights:

Not only is the collaboration with a fashion designer news, it’s also an innovation on the formula front, as the new Malle perfume is touted to be inclusive of a new, natural Indian sandalwood from a sustainable source. Indian sandalwood, for those who didn’t know, had essentially been eradicated from perfumery in the last 20 years or so, due to concerns and regulations on the sustainability of the Mysore sandalwood. The news therefore is a leap of hope for the industry in general and sure to create a real peak of interest in the heart of every perfume fan out there. The new fragrance is an oriental woody, smooth and polished like the designs of Van Noten.
The composition has been undertaken by rising perfumer Bruno Jovanovich of International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) The fragrance notes for the upcoming Dries van Noten par Frédéric Malle are citron, sandalwood, guaiac wood, saffron, Spanish jasmine, tonka beans, Cashmeran/blonde woods, vanilla and musk.
As you can see the presentation of the bottle is also different than the rest of the Malle portfolio, as this is a separate line.

You can read more about the perfume, as well as the long discussion about it, on the Perfume Shrine link above.

BY KILIAN:

The scion of the Hennessey part of the LVMH luxury conglomerate, Kilian Hennessey, will launch a new perfume in April for his Asian Tales Collection.  NST has more details:

By Kilian Flower of Immortality

Niche line By Kilian will launch Flower of Immortality in April. The fragrance is the third in the Asian tales collection that debuted in 2012 with Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy. Flower of Immortality celebrates peach blossom, a symbol of immortality in Asian folklore.

Flower of Immortality is a fruity floral, and was developed by perfumer Calice Becker. Notes include white peach, carrot, iris, blackcurrant buds, rose, tonka bean and vanilla.

By Kilian Flower of Immortality will be available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum or in a 30 ml travel size, both refillable.

ETRO:

The Italian fashion house, Etro, is launching a new perfume in March 2013 called Rajasthan. Fragrantica has details as well as a photo of the colourful bottle:

Beautiful colors and bright, explosive shades are intertwined in the poetic composition of Rajasthan, which vividly depicts the splendor and glow of Maharadza’s palace. 

Rajasthan perfume opens with luminous accords of lemon combined with elegant Damascus rose and its powerful sweetness. A gentle note in top notes is provided by yellow mimosa. The heart accentuates floral notes of acacia spiced with pink pepper and warmed with a blend of amber, labdanum and white musk enriching the base.

RAJASTHAN

damascus rose, mimosa, lemon
acacia, pink pepper
amber, labdanum, white musk

Etro Rajasthan arrives in a flacon embellished with cashmere motifs, playing with intense colors of bright pink and orange with tiny details in turquoise and purple, in the amount of 100 ml Eau de Parfum. The flacon design and notes of the composition reflect perfectly the beauty of India and offer a sort of passionate journey to the Orient.

I love that bottle! And I adore the perfume section of Etro’s website. Such colours, such vibrancy!

ROGER & GALLET:

The old 19th-Century beauty and fragrance house has teamed up with the famous perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian, to create a new fig scent that will be released in March 2013. Fragrantica quotes from the press release as follows:

Roger & Gallet are launching a new fragrance in March 2013, a creation of famous perfumer Francis Kurkdjian! The central theme of the perfume is fig blossom (Fleur de Figuier). Its scent is taking us to the Mediterranean and the French Riviera, relaxing and resting our senses. The inspiration behind the fragrance lies in gardens full of figs, placed between Cannes and Saint-Raphael at Massif de l’Esterel—the coastal mountainous region of Southern France. Scents of fig leaves, branches, milk and sweet fruits are mixed with mountain air and sea aromas to create an irresistible composition created by nature.

Initial notes of the fragrance introduce a refreshing blend of mandarin, mixing their luminous and juicy zest with sparkling grapefruit in an explosion of energy. The citrusy union is spiced delicately with caraway, reminding us of sweet sun-bathed fig fruit. The heart adds a blend of fig leaves with juicy fig fruit, resting on a base of sensual musk and fig milk, leaving a warm and cuddly trail on the skin.

FLEUR DE FIGUIER
mandarin, grapefruit, caraway
fig leaf, fig fruit, fig milk
musk, cedar

ROGER & GALLET FLEUR DE FIGUIER is available as 30 and 100 ml Eau Fraiche accompanied with 200 ml body care lotion, 200 ml shower cream and perfumed soap (separately and in a set).  The brand’s perfumes usually range between $30-$65 and are available on Roger & Gallet website as well as at other retailers.

TOCCA:

Tocca has released a new perfume inspired by the 1920s. NST has details from the press release:

Tocca Liliana fragrance

Tocca has launched Liliana, a new fragrance for women:

A lush, green, rolling lawn is the setting for a roaring 20s party in full swing. Liliana conjures a reveler in the bloom of youth dancing the Charleston amidst flowing bottles of champagne and a spirited jazz band.

The lowering sun casts a golden sparkle as an intoxicating bouquet of muguet, gardenia and peony wafts from the gardens, filling the night with joie de vivre.

Additional notes include bergamot, neroli, watery peach, sandalwood, musk, benzoin and patchouli.

Tocca Liliana is $68 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum or $20 for a 10 ml rollerball.

The perfume is already out and available at Sephora.

ESTEE LAUDER:

Yes, even Estée Lauder has given in to the Oud craze. No, there is absolutely no end in sight to the madness. The Moodie Report has details on the latest perfume, Amber Mystique, which will be an amber oud fragrance:

Estée Lauder is building on the success of its Wood Mystique fragrance (the brand’s first unisex scent that specifically targeted the Middle Eastern consumer) with the introduction of Amber Mystique. It will be on-counter in Middle Eastern travel retail doors from March, before rolling out to selected travel retail locations across the UK and Europe from June.
Described as “full-bodied, intricate and darkly ornate”, the oriental amber juice was created for the fragrance connoisseur who uses scent to convey status, personal signature and good taste, according to the brand. […]

 

The Amber Mystique juice features notes of amber, Taif Rose NP®, Oud Wood, blackcurrant, raspberry, pink pepper, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine, incense, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, leather and musk.
The fragrance is presented in a reworked version of the original Wood Mystique flacon, in amber tones to complement the name, with the EL cartouche embossed on the front.

Estee Lauder Amber Mystique will be introduced first in the Middle East in March and then available elsewhere in June. Despite the article not saying so, I assume it will be available in the US and will not be a purely European exclusive. It will come in a 100 ml Eau de Parfum version.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD:

Vivienne Westwood will have a new perfume out in April. NST reports:

Vivienne Westwood Flirty Alice perfume

In April, Vivienne Westwood will launch Flirty Alice, the third in the series that includes 2010′s Naughty Alice and 2011′s Cheeky Alice.

Flirty Alice is a floral fragrance, and features notes of bergamot, green tea, rose, vanilla and blond woods.

Vivienne Westwood Flirty Alice will be available in 75 ml Eau de Toilette.

KENZO:

Fans of Kenzo‘s Amour line of fragrances may be happy to hear that there is a new flanker out on the market. NST reports the following:

Kenzo Amour My Love

Kenzo has launched Amour My Love, a new limited edition flanker to 2006′s Kenzo Amour. Amour My Love follows last year’s Amour I Love U.

Kenzo Amour my love is a new declaration of love. A fragrance where the freshness of pink grapefruit meets the sensuality of peony and rose. A generous trail, to celebrate romance. Fall in love again with Kenzo amour.

The fruity floral fragrance for women features notes of grapefruit, passion fruit, gooseberry, peony, rose, cherry blossom, lilac, cedar and white musk.

Kenzo Amour My Love is available in 50 ml Eau de Toilette.

FRAGONARD:

The famous old, Grasse perfume house, Fragonard, is very close to my heart. And they have just come out with new fragrances. NST has the details:

Fragonard Belle de Nuit Intense

French perfume house Fragonard has launched Belle de Nuit Intense, a followup to their Belle de Nuit fragrance for women. Also new from the brand: Muguet, and Confidentiel for men.

Belle de Nuit Intense ~ “The night is yours… The lady in blue’s perfume is both opulent diabolically sensual [sic]. A ylang ylang, tuberose, gardenia and pear top note moves on to a middle note of jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley, rounded off with a back note of sandalwood and musk for an unforgettable floral and fruity fragrance. In 200 ml Eau de Parfum, €45.

Fragonard Muguet

Muguet ~ “A lucky eau de toilette that celebrates a top note of neroli, pink peppercorn. Borne by a middle note of jasmine, freesia and lily-of-the-valley, on a spicy back note of amber, cedar and musk.” In 50 ml Eau de Toilette, €15, and in matching bath, body & home fragrance products.

Fragonard Confidentiel fragrance for men

Confidentiel ~ “A perfume of secrets… This new eau de toilette for men will not, however, go unnoticed! Pepper and pink peppercorn liven up the grapefruit for a fresh and spicy note. The middle note puts an accent on magnolia and incense on a cedar wood, patchouli and sandalwood back note.” In 100 and 200 ml refillable Eau de Toilette, or 600 ml refill; matching grooming products also sold.

(via fragonard)

CARVEN:

Famed perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has created a new perfume for the classic house, Carven, which is also re-launching its famous Ma Griffe. NST has information on the new releases:

Carven Le Parfum

Carven will launch Carven Le Parfum, a new fragrance for women, and will relaunch the brand’s classic 1946 perfume Ma Griffe.

Le Parfum was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian; notes for the floral scent include hyacinth, sweet pea, ylang ylang, jasmine, osmanthus, apricot and sandalwood.

In the UK, Carven Le Parfum will be introduced at Harrods in early May. There is no information on when it will be released in the US.

ROBERT PIGUET:

Robert Piguet, makers of the famous Fracas and Bandit, has just released a new perfume called Bois Bleu which was created by Givaudaun perfumer Aurelien Guichard. It is not currently available in the US but will be soon. CaFleureBon has further details:

Robert Piguet Bois Bleu“The intensity of precious woods, the aromatic accents of fresh herbs and the delicate touch of invigorating citrus tell the story of Bois Bleu de Robert Piguet. This bold and dynamic woody elixir combines iconic Piguet sophistication with modern refinement, offering an opulent scent for those not afraid to make a style statement. Discover the warmth of rich woods delicately accented with nuances of lavender. The invigorating composition of woody notes is perfectly balanced by crisp citrus and warm herbs. Fresh bergamot lends a citrusy touch in the top note that is perfectly nuanced by an earthy violet and spiced nutmeg heart. To complete the opulent presentation, mysterious sandalwood mingles with sharp cedar and exotic vetiver to form a warm and refined drydown.”

Top notes: bergamot and citrus
Heart notes: nutmeg and violet
Base notes: sandalwood, cedar and vetiver

Bois Bleu is an eau de parfum and comes in a 100ml bottle for $150. It is currently out and available in the UK at Harrods where it costs £130.

JO MALONE:

In March, Jo Malone will release 5 new limited-edition fragrances inspired by British pudding and tea time treats. NST has the details:

Jo Malone Sugar & Spice visual

Jo Malone will follow 2011′s Tea Fragrance Blends collection with Sugar & Spice, a new limited edition quintet inspired by “quintessential British pudding” flavors. Look for them in March.

The Sugar & Spice fragrances were developed by perfumer Christine Nagel. The fragrances are Lemon Tart, Redcurrant & Cream, Elderflower & Gooseberry, Ginger Biscuit and Bitter Orange & Chocolate. (I will update with individual notes when I can.)

The Jo Malone Sugar & Spice collection will be available in 30 ml Cologne, £38 each or £190 for the set.

[S]ome brief fragrance notes ~

Lemon Tart ~ citrus fruits, verbena, meringue and lemon thyme.

Redcurrant & Cream ~ redcurrants, strawberries, raspberries and creamy musk.

Elderflower & Gooseberry ~ gooseberries, lychee and elderflower.

Ginger Biscuit ~ ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla.

Bitter Orange & Chocolate ~ orange, cocoa, coconut and coumarin.

The perfumes are already mentioned on the Jo Malone website but there is no product or pricing information. I assume those will be provided and updated after March 1, 2013.

ADAM LEVINE:

I saved the best for last, if only because of one of the photos. Adam Levine has collaborated with a well-known perfume “nose” to make Adam Levine for Women and Adam Levine for Men. To my surprise, they have received a great review. (Yes, it apparently shocked the reviewer at CaFleureBon himself.) Mr. Levine does not seem to be like the majority of celebrities out there who leave the perfume details to the marketing team and focus groups. Instead, he seems to have played a very active part in things. And he also recruited someone who CaFleureBon called one of the top perfume noses around: Yann Vasnier from Givaudan. “M. Vasnier has slowly been letting a niche aesthetic find its way into his mainstream releases. He has been the most persistent in attempting this and in these two fragrances I think we’ve come to the place where we’re about to find out if the great majority of fragrance shoppers are ready to take a walk on the niche side.” All of this for perfumes that cost $35 an ounce!

As for the perfumes themselves, Fragrantica has a full report:

In February 2013, Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine is launching fragrances for men and women, with a wish to impress the world of today, according to his words. Fragrances are launched under license by ID Perfumes and Adam collaborated with perfumers of the house of Givaudan on the realization of his idea. “The fragrances are as innovative as they are classic. The bottles take the form of a microphone, with a luxurious, weighted cap in silver mesh. The black stem resembles the wire of a microphone, simple and sleek.”

ADAM LEVINE for WOMEN: The fragrance for women has been announced as intoxicating, sexy, unleashed… A fragrance that attracts and keeps the attention. Top notes will allure you with a blend of saffron, citruses, marigold and spices. The heart encompasses gentle petals of Indian jasmine, Australian sandalwood and rose petals, while the base is composed of benzoin tears and seductive, creamy vanilla. The perfume is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

saffron, citruses, marigold, spices
Indian jasmine, Australian sandalwood, rose petals
benzoin tears, vanilla

ADAM LEVINE for MEN: The edition for men leaves an unforgettable trail which opens with juicy mandarin, grapefruit and lemongrass. Aromatic support is provided by sage and violet leaf. The heart adds passion fruit, guava leaf and freshly cut ginger, on a base of cedar, sandalwood and amber. The perfume can be obtained as 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette.

mandarin, graperfuit, lemongrass, sage, violet leaf
passion fruit, guava leaf, ginger
cedar, sandalwood, amber

The fragrances debuted in Los Angeles on January 31, 2013 at Macy’s. In New York, they will be available also at Macy’s Herald Square on February 15th. You can find details at this link for the February 15th appearance. The perfumes cost $65 for a large 3.4 oz/100 ml size bottle and are available right now on the Macy’s website with a special “Bonus Offer.” You can read more at http://adamlevine-fragrances.com/.

But, wait, that’s not all. Apparently, Adam Levine is determined to become the Martha Stewart of celebrity perfumers because there are reports that he will be releasing two more fragrances (and as soon as the next two months)! From Glamazon Diaries, the details are as follows:

Maroon 5 front man and The Voice judge Adam Levine is said to be working on a new fragrance project with ID Perfumes called 222 by Adam Levine. The men’s and women’s scents, which will launch in May 2013, will be sold in department and specialty stores in the US as well as expansion to Canada, Mexico, South America, the U.K., Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Far East.

The project is currently in progress with no announcement of the notes that will be included for each perfume.  The eau de parfum will be available in 1 oz., 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. flacons, retailing for $36, $45 and $65, respectively.

Well, I must say, I think he has a beautiful body. The disembodied hands, however….